Winter Pakistan: Gottler and Barmasse to Attempt Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face

Finally, there’s news about the team heading for 8,126m Nanga Parbat. Led by German David Gottler and including Herve Barmasse, Mike Arnold, and Pakistan’s Kudrat Ali, the climbers will aim for the mighty Rupal Face. This is a mind-blowing 4,600m high, south-facing wall that has never been climbed in winter before, @KrisAnnapurna reports. Even in summer, the wall challenges the very best. It is considered the highest mountain face in the world.

The climbers are already in Pakistan and should reach Base Camp later this week, according to the outfitter, Alpine Adventure Guides.

The Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. Photo: Bernhard Krainer

 

Gottler and Barmasse have done some remarkable climbs together, including a fast alpine-style push on Shishapangma’s South Face in 2017. In 2019 and 2021, Gottler attempted Everest without O2. On these occasions, he was without Barmasse, who refuses to climb anywhere with fixed ropes around. On his latest Everest attempt, Gottler teamed up with Kilian Jornet instead. Jornet is definitely not part of the team this time.

American Mike Arnold is an IFMGA guide based in the Italian Alps. He has over a dozen expeditions to Alaska and South America. In 2017, he made a first ascent of Chugima Go, a 6,000m peak in Nepal.

The team seems likely to stay off social media throughout the expedition, judging from their general silence so far.

Meanwhile, at least one detail has emerged about the Japanese expedition before Kazuya Hiraide‘s rescue. On December 17, the two Japanese did summit the unclimbed 6,020m peak. It remains unknown how far they reached on Karun Koh before Hiraide suffered frostbite.

Peaks targeted by Hiraide and Mitoro. Photo: Carlos Garranzo/Facebook

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!


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Jmaf
Jmaf
4 months ago

Awesome! This is definitely one to follow! Good luck gents!

Jahan
Jahan
4 months ago

Nanga….Germans’ mountain of destiny.

Last edited 4 months ago by Jahan
Steve
Steve
4 months ago

….. “refuses to climb anywhere with fixed ropes around”. So bad ass. Pure alpinism.

Vincent
Vincent
4 months ago

By The way, this is David Göttlers second Expedition to the Nanga Parbat Rupal Face in Winter in 2013/2014 he already tried to climb Nanga in Winter via Schell route with Simone Moro. Back then he reached 7300m with Tomek before he had to turn around. There he took some iconic selfies. Interesting that he choses winter….
David Göttler is defnetly one of the alpinists with most dialed and effective training regime.

Chogori
4 months ago

Nanga is always German’s 🏔️.