Little Hope on Winter Nanga Parbat

With jet stream winds forecast to hit Nanga Parbat hard until February 10, Herve Barmasse and David Gottler have all but given up this year’s winter attempt.

The Italian and the German reached Base Camp in mid-December but have only managed to venture up the Schell route twice. Their high point was 6,200m.

David Gottler (left) and Herve Barmasse on a rare sunny day on Nanga Parbat. Photo: David Gottler

 

The climbers have flexible airline tickets home scheduled for the end of January and do not intend to prolong their stay in Pakistan. They are still willing to launch another push if next week’s forecasts prove wrong. But “honestly, that is very unlikely,” Barmasse admitted.

Yesterday, Simone Moro analyzed the Schell route on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat in an interview with ExplorersWeb. The Italian winter expert was not optimistic about his friends’ chances for an alpine-style attempt. Moro was especially concerned about the long upper section of the route. It would require either a very fast ascent or difficult bivouacs on the shadowy Diamir side of the mountain.

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!


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chris
chris
3 months ago

whats up with the hiking pole rope “fence”?
Is that supposed to be an anchor or is that just to warn them if they stumble outside taking a loo?

Emma
Emma
3 months ago
Reply to  chris

Looks like a shadow not a rope

Twinkletoes
Twinkletoes
3 months ago
Reply to  chris

Well I sure hope they have more solid anchors. I guess it’s the second option, unless they are expecting crowding and want to stave off their picnic area?

Lenore Jones
Lenore Jones
3 months ago

Hey, there’s a typo in one iteration of HervĂ©’s surname, where you have it as Barmansse.

It’s too bad about the weather, but I guess winter climbs will always have lower chances.

Iftikhar Ali
Iftikhar Ali
3 months ago

It’s better to wait there till Feb, hopefully they will get a clear window on Valentine’s Day