Kangchenjunga Summit Push Halted

The first summit push of the season on Kangchenjunga has failed, according to the climbers watching from Base Camp.

Romanian Horia Colibasanu reports that a Japanese climber watching the summit group through binoculars saw them set off from Camp 4. They gained some 400m, then turned back.

“It was probably due to bad weather,” Colibasanu guessed. He had returned from his final acclimatization trip to Camp 3 yesterday amid snow flurries.

Saad Munawar later confirmed that the weather had deteriorated through the evening. Imagine Nepal’s Sherpa team and a number of their clients were in Camp 4 and delayed their summit push by two hours. Finally, they left their tents toward the summit at 10 pm local time.

Munawar also confirmed that Sirbaz Khan, who is assisting the rope-fixing team, is not using supplementary O2.

Purnima Shrestha of Nepal, also in Base Camp, says it is snowing heavily.


The weather is not cooperating on Annapurna, either. Climbers are facing some snow flurries but are still hoping to summit tomorrow. The route has already been fixed to Camp 4, so further progress is expected today. Those who were in Camp 3 yesterday, including Moeses Fiamoncini of Brazil, Laura Mares of Romania, and Norwegian Kristine Harila, should be ready for a summit push.

Senior journalist, published author and communication consultant. Specialized on high-altitude mountaineering, with an interest for everything around the mountains: from economics to geopolitics. After five years exploring distant professional ranges, I returned to ExWeb BC in 2018. Feeling right at home since then!

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Le Mec
Le Mec
12 hours ago

Aren’t conditions generally better in mid to late May than April, similar to the small weather window between May 18-25 on Everest?

10 hours ago
Reply to  Le Mec

Not necessarily. It depends on a few factors, such as the location of the mountain within the range – eg. Dhaulagiri cops the weather first from the west, so gets a lot of snow, Shishapangma is further north, Kanch is way east – and the nature of the route – eg. what aspect it faces, how much it is snow or rock etc. Generally speaking the monsoon has been arriving later and later, whereas 30 years ago 25th May could be too late and risk getting shut down by an early monsoon. In the early 90s the 10th May was… Read more »